Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
